fashion

Valentino Haute Couture Under Alessandro Michele

written by ellia romeiro-lourenco


From the creative director of Gucci to Valentino, Alessandro Michele is a creative force to be reckoned with. Taking his knowledge of bohemian, and maximalism silhouettes, Michele is altering Valentino one stitch at a time. By introducing radical colour schemes, fluid gowns, quirky accessories and boho styling, he holds the future of Valentino in his hands. Michele took a new approach to the brand's intense aesthetic of Italian glamour and classic femininity with a deep appreciation of haute couture, and has shown that sometimes change can be a good thing. 

Working together with the CEO of Valentino Jacopo Venturini, Alessandro Michele has overturned not only the brand's creative vision but also runway locations, and overall presentation structure. Under Michele’s direction not only has Valentino been able to prove that changing concrete aesthetics works, but they have changed how the fashion house operates as a whole. The brand has now reduced the number of its fashion week appearances, now presenting co-ed ready-to-wear shows two times a year. With a heavy focus on single Haute Couture collections that will be showcased annually. Although this is a new era for Valentino, Michele still keeps their steady heartbeat in each collection that he has overseen for the iconic Italian fashion house. 

Their Spring Haute Couture 2026 show was an homage to fashion visionary Valentino Garavani, only days after his passing. Garavani’s entry to fashion goes back to when he first fell in love with garments by watching women on the silver screen in his boyhood. Michele believed it was imperative that he honour this deep energy of nostalgia and adoration that the late founder had, and brought it to life in this show. Presenting a vision of grand characters, guests were seated around carouselesque wooden circles that peered into narrow windows to take in each look one by one. With models walking into the middle of the circles as notable celebrities like Kirsten Dunst, Tyla, and Dakota Johnson looked back at them. It may seem like Michele simply has a knack for interior design for his shows, but it was actually a reinvention of a long-gone moving-image mechanism from the late 1800’s called a Kaiserpanorama. He desired to slow down viewers' gazes and give each look a moment of solitary, intimate dedication. In a world that is extremely fast paced and overly saturated with rapidly moving content, Alessandro Michele slowed down time to bring attention to the beauty of fashion and life while honouring this “mythical figure" (Garavani) whom he admired greatly. (Alessandro Michele via Vogue Arabia). In classic Alessandro Michele style, these women were full of pure drama with showstopping outfits that mirrored Bob Mackie’s creations for Cher. Every look that was shown had a story to tell. Modesty and restraint were not in Michele’s  vocabulary when envisioning this dazzling collection. Models were adorned with handbeaded garments and ornate crowns, appearing as modern-day Elizabethan starlets. Staying on theme with Garavani’s sentimental desires, this collection looked straight out of a 1920s Hollywood movie, while maintaining Michele’s fairytale maximalist design approach. He perfectly blends two very different worlds, while incorporating design elements of the greats that came before him. 

Alessandro Michele is reshaping the world of Haute Couture and flipping it on its head. The Italian creative director is returning the designer label to its Roman roots by rejecting the idea of strictly adhering to Parisian venues for his runways. Rather he stages conceptual ready-to-wear couture presentations in Italian cities. Further demonstrating how unabashedly unique and individual Michele is as a person for not conforming to the societal norm that has been a part of the fashion industry for decades. It’s unsure what the future holds for Valentino, but with someone as unapologetic and captivating as Alessandro Michele is, they're certain to be in trusted hands. 

Alessandro Michele

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