Few fashion houses understand the power of theatre quite like Schiaparelli. Under creative director Daniel Roseberry, the Paris couture label has transformed each runway into a cultural event of fantasy and art. When Roseberry unveiled Schiaparelli's Spring/Summer 2026 haute couture collection, he did more than present a runway show, he reminded audiences why haute couture remains one of fashion's most compelling forms of creative expression.

Titled The Agony and the Ecstasy, the collection drew inspiration from Michelangelo and Roseberry's visit to the Sistine Chapel in Rome. Rather than centering the collection on a rigid concept, the designer said he wanted viewers to respond emotionally to the clothes themselves. The result was a presentation built on extraordinary craftsmanship, dramatic silhouettes and surrealist imagination, qualities that have become central to his vision for Schiaparelli.

Image by Schiaparelli 

Among the show's standout moments was the "Isabella Blowfish," a sculptural gown named after the late fashion editor Isabella Blow. The design featured hundreds of organza spikes radiating from the body, transforming the wearer into a living work of art. The look is made to look sculptural and other worldly, Schiaparelli describes it,“ The jacket is enhanced with defying gravity hips, and a matching skirt. Silver metal headpiece decorated with black rhinestones, with a large central rhinestone and small spikes. Necklace decorated with crystal rhinestones, with a large central rhinestone. A hand sculpted resin bird's head hangs in the center.” (Schiaparelli)

Image by Schiaparelli

Another headline-making look, later worn by Emily Blunt to the Devil Wears Prada 2 premier, showcased over 25,000 individually crafted silk thread feathers, roughly 4,000 hours of handwork. Rather than using embellishment for decoration alone, Roseberry demonstrated how couture techniques can shape garments into sculptural forms.

Image by Schiaparelli

Nature served as another defining theme throughout the collection. Models appeared wearing crystal-covered peacock feathers, crocodile and scorpion-inspired tails and seashell embellishments. These surreal elements referenced founder Elsa Schiaparelli's fascination with fantasy and the natural world while reflecting Roseberry's own interpretation of surrealism. The garments felt imaginative without becoming costumes, balancing artistic experimentation with precise tailoring.

Roseberry's greatest strength lies in his ability to make couture feel culturally relevant. Fashion critics praised Spring/Summer 2026 as one of the season's strongest presentations, noting that Roseberry seized the moment as other Paris couture houses entered periods of creative transition. Vogue described the collection as an opportunity for the designer to "flex," reinforcing Schiaparelli's position at the forefront of contemporary couture.

The spectacle extended beyond the garments themselves. Each look rewarded close inspection, revealing countless hours of embroidery, hand-painted feathers, structural engineering and couture construction. While the silhouettes appeared almost impossible, every piece reflected the meticulous craftsmanship that defines haute couture. That combination of technical mastery and visual drama has become Roseberry's signature since taking the helm of Schiaparelli in 2019.