Issey Miyake’s Spring/Summer 2027 menswear collection demonstrated how innovation can emerge from the disciplined refinement of materials, construction, and movement. Designers Nobutaka Kobayashi, Sen Kawahara, and Yuki Itakura approached bamboo as the season's structural and emotional language, translating its shadows, textures, and rhythms into garments. 

Photos by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Issey Miyake

The colour palette grounded itself in black, white, and earthy neutrals, using subtle tonal gradations reminiscent of East Asian ink wash paintings and the motifs created by paper stencils used in katazome kimono dyeing. While the majority of the collection followed this colouring, later looks on the runway featured an array of greens, rich blue, and vibrant pink.

Photos by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Issey Miyake

Sharp shoulders against fluid tunics, long dress-like layers over trousers, and utility-driven cargo sets softened by airy fabrics. Even the accessories–bamboo-woven hats, kasa-inspired silhouettes, soft leather berets, long gloves, pleated silk bags, and raw wood necklaces—extended the dialogue between nature and artisanal craft.

The BAMBOO SHADOWS series used ironaki dyeing on bamboo-fibre and organic cotton blends to capture the delicate contours of shadows cast by bamboo. The resulting prints possessed a diffused softness that behaved almost like moving ink, shifting with the wearer’s motion. The featured patterns were created by graphic designer Rikako Nagashima.

Photos by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Issey Miyake

BLOOM NYLON introduced high-density nylon with a paper-like texture, its dye-flow technique producing gradients reminiscent of leaves and petals. The collar, formed by overlapping tucks, draws inspiration from the jūnihitoe (the twelve-layered kimono) worn by Princess Kaguya in The Tale of the Bamboo Cutter, one of the oldest Japanese folktales, demonstrating how historical references can be transformed into modern sculptural forms.

Photos by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Issey Miyake

The BAMBOO BLEACH series reimagines denim; it’s woven with finer yarn than traditional denim, which gives the fabric a much lighter weight. Artisans used discharge printing to create tonal variations that echoed traditional ink landscapes, leaving the base colour along seams to mimic the natural gradation of bamboo imagery. The jacket’s ability to cinch at the waist added a tailored dimension to an otherwise relaxed textile. 

Photos by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Issey Miyake

BASKET JACQUARD pushed structural experimentation further, using recycled polyester, nylon, and polyurethane to recreate the interlacing geometry of bamboo weaving. The top, cut from a single rectangular pattern, demonstrated an ongoing interest in reducing construction to its most essential form, while the voluminous tapered pants echoed the same architectural logic.

Photos by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Issey Miyake

BAMBOO PLEATS used hand-pleated polyester fabric with an acrylic-coated reverse to create rhythmic valley folds that maintained their three-dimensionality without stiffness. 

Photos by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Issey Miyake

NODE PLEATS, partially derived from plant-based materials, use a hand-pleated technique and are inspired by the natural rhythm and contours formed by the nodes of bamboo. The refined matte fabric gives garments a quiet, understated texture that highlights the crisp pleated structure. 

BAMBOO SHEATH features a print inspired by bamboo shoots, rendered with hand-painted brushstrokes. The pants are inspired by the form of bamboo shoots and the layered structure of their skins. The pants have a draped silhouette that mimics a piece of fabric wrapped around the body.

Photos by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Issey Miyake

VOID COTTON is a series that explored the use of “negative space”. The void is created by removing the pockets, letting the body and clothing below become visible, making room for new layering possibilities.  

Photos by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Issey Miyake

What made the collection commercially compelling was its ability to merge conceptual depth with real-world wearability. The tailoring remained sharp enough for everyday use, the outerwear offered practical versatility, and the pleated pieces—already a proven commercial success for the brand—were refreshed with new textures and silhouettes. The designers’ commitment to technical fabrics ensured durability, comfort, and ease of maintenance, qualities that continue to drive the global appeal of Homme Plissé.

Homme Plissé’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection treats innovation as a disciplined design practice. By grounding their experimentation in the quiet poetry of bamboo and the precision of advanced textile engineering, Kobayashi, Kawahara, and Itakura delivered a collection that reaffirms Issey Miyake’s legacy as a house where tailoring and movement are inseparable.

Photos by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Issey Miyake