The assembly of African designers that are turning heads during couture season is at an all time high. There is so much talent hailing from the vast continent and the world is finally waking up and recognizing the booming designers that have so much to say. These designers are seamlessly blending traditional craftsmanship and techniques that have been passed down from generations, with a contemporary-haute couture lens, to create garments that have never been seen before. Visionaries like Tolu Coker, and Mowalola Ogunlesi are some of the many designers that are making waves on the catwalk and taking the world of luxury fashion by storm. 

 Diaspora '68' Collection,' by Tolu Coker  

Tolu Coker is a leading light in the fashion community. The British-Nigerian designer has not only immersed herself in the fashion industry but she is a multidisciplinary artist based in London. Recognized for her self-titled, size inclusive, and predominantly unisex brand, Coker blends precise tailoring with sustainably socially conscious design, all the while gaining international recognition. With a deep influence from her diasporic identity and working class upbringing, Coker was raised by her late father who was a photographer who documented political protests, and her mother was a seamstress who created clothing for the family. This instilled a deep adoration for storytelling, craftsmanship and sustainability in Coker from a young age. Graduating with First Class Honours from the acclaimed fashion school Central Saint Martins with a specialization in fashion design and textile print, Coker went on to launch her independent label while securing internships at high-profile fashion houses Celine (during the era of Phoebe Philo), Maison Margiela, and J.W Anderson. Establishing her eponymous brand in 2021, Coker’s brand is praised for her cultural storytelling in which she uses her collections to delve into the complexities of the Black British African experience. Incorporating historical family photos into her prints and stage setups at her runway shows are a way that she pays homage to street markets and her working-class roots. Sustainability is at the forefront of her business with up to 90% of her materials being deadstock, discarded or torn bits of fabric to minimize waste. Gaining rapid recognition in the luxury fashion world, she was not only named in Forbes 30 under 30 in arts and culture, a “sustainability trailblazer” on the cover of British Vogue in 2024, an LVMH Prize finalist, as well as dressing top celebrities like Rihanna, Doja Cat, and Naomi Campbell, all the while receiving the honour of having King Charles III attend her London Fashion Week showcase. Tolu Coker’s impressive career is only just beginning and who knows what else this rising designer will bring to the table. 

Tolu Coker

 Mowalola Ogunlesi is turning heads in the fashion industry. The Nigerian-born fashion designer and singer is based out of London, England. Known for working with a wide range of textiles including leather and PVC to produce unorthodox silhouettes, and taking inspiration from Nigerian and British youth culture, Ogunlesi also studied at Central Saint Martins in 2017 in which she left to achieve her goals outside of an academic setting. Prior to her departure, Ogunlesi completed her BA in fashion textiles and created her graduate collection titled “Psychedelic”. Influenced by the petrolheads in Lagos and Nigeria’s psychedelic rock scene in the 70’s. When asked about the collection she stated it was “unapologetically black and pan-African”. Two years later her world changed when she made her London Fashion Week East debut, where her immense talent landed her the role of design director with Kanye West’s brand Yeezy. In the years to come, Ogunlesi was named one of “10 Trailblazing Women Changing The Future You Need To Know” by Elle, also creating outfits for rapper Skepta’s “Pure Water” music video, and being one of six designers approached by British Vogue to style Barbie dolls for their 60th anniversary. Her approach to couture is seen through her provocative, Y2K inspired streetwear in which she has collaborated with Nike to rewrite the rules of modern luxury. Getting a glimpse of her genderfluid aesthetic and interest in treated leather, she continues to experiment with textiles by pressing glossy leather jackets that are treated with custom spray-painted art, while creating moto jackets and garments made from a neon green and brown cowhide. Ogunlesi’s work has been recognized by many celebrities for her unapologetic approach to her designs. Drake wore one of her custom leather jackets  that was spray-painted with an illustration of Halle Berry in her 2002 James Bond role.

Psychedelic Collection

Drake in custom Mowalola Jacket 

Autumn/Winter 2019 Collection

Ogunlesi’s talent has exceeded the fashion industry through her collaboration with The Skateroom in 2025 to design a limited-edition skateboard deck collection. Not only has Mowalola Ogunlesi cemented her role in the fashion industry but she has broken into many  different aspects of mainstream media, and will continue to turn heads and start conversations with her unique outlook on the industry. 

As the fashion industry continues to shed light on the talented designers who are often overlooked, there will continue to be a surplus of rising creativity that brings new perspectives to the table. With younger generations becoming increasingly interested in fashion, designers like Tolu Coker, and Mowalola Ogunlesi will continue to be inspirations for the designers of tomorrow and continue to change the world of Haute Couture.